Today I cycled the length of Mattole Road, which starts in Ferndale, where I stayed last night, and immediately ascends—with a steep climb—over the coastal range. It is the only road access to the Lost Coast (further south you can backpack the Lost Coast in protected wilderness). It’s called the Lost Coast because it’s so rugged that there’s little population, and it was deemed too expensive to build the continuation of Highway 1 through it.

Mattole Road is known for being a remote scenic drive, as well as its large mountain climbs, and boy were they steep. I awoke in the morning to the usual coastal fog, and the climb up was cool temperatures and more dappled sunlight through the trees. The top of the coast range emerged above the clouds into the sun, but I shortly descended the other side, which was cold and damp in the fog. After climbing over a second ridge, the ocean came into view; it was actually below the marine layer so I could see the whole coastline. It was really pretty with its black sand and untrammeled beaches.

The second half of the day involved climbing even higher to get back over the coastal range. I was a little further inland, and by this time the fog had burned off; it was hot in the sun. Again it was relentlessly steep for most of the climb, only flattening slightly near to the top. I was glad to get to the top. During the long coast down the other side, I had to be careful not to overheat my brakes.

At the bottom of the descent I dropped into Humboldt Redwoods State Park and the largest contiguous grove of uncut giant redwoods. What a treat it was after such an arduous day in the saddle to again cycle through the redwoods! It really does make you feel miniature; they are huge. Tonight I’m camped again nestled in the redwoods. I’m looking forward to putting my head on the pillow tonight.